As the founder of Yun Hai—an importer, online shop, and Brooklyn store—Lisa Cheng Smith brings standout ingredients from Taiwanese artisans to eager cooks in the U.S. These are the markets, restaurants, and more she visits on trips to Taipei.
Less“I favor the smaller night markets around town for their local appeal and focus on food. This one is centrally located in downtown Taipei, so is convenient if you’ve been sightseeing in the area. My favorites (several on the MICHELIN Bib Gourmand list) are the ice-and-fire tang yuan (sweet boiled glutinous rice dumplings served on a bed of ice), stinky tofu (there are a couple great stalls), the squid-and-fish-paste soup, and Lo Chi Hsiao Chao 駱記小炒, a shop specializing in piping-hot stir-fries.”
“Ningxia is an excellent neighborhood night market that’s lesser known to tourists and a great place to find local hits. It’s a bit smaller than the better-known markets, so though still bustling, less crowded. Just show up and go for anything with a line developing (the queues move fast). Try the turkey rice at Fang Jia 方家雞肉飯 (if you won’t make it to Chiayi in Central Taiwan, that is) and the fried taro balls at Liu Yu Zi 劉芋仔芋餅, stuffed with a salted egg yolk and pork floss.”
“The most hyperlocal of all the markets mentioned here, Yansan Night Market is a small collection of shops serving the neighborhood. I’d arrive on the early side, around 6:30 p.m., because some shops (sour cabbage and pork rib soup) sell out as early as 7 p.m. Definitely stop for the Hakka-style savory tang yuan (sticky rice dumplings) in soup. I also recommend the honey roast goose, served with fermented bean paste, garlic chili sauce, Thai basil, and shredded ginger.”
“A humble and sublime fish ball soup shop on a quiet neighborhood park. Their specialty is Fuzhou-style fish balls, made of fluffy fish paste stuffed with a brothy minced pork filling, kind of like a soup dumpling. The fish balls are served in a clear, savory broth with optional noodles. Everything is made fresh by hand—a wonderful example of the technical adeptness that defines small eateries in Taiwan. Of all the food I’ve had in Taipei, I return to the memory of this soup the most often.”
“Situated at the entrance to the Yongle Fabric Market, this stall has been serving glossy Taiwanese you fan—glutinous rice that’s been spiced, mixed with savory ingredients, and steamed—for over a century. It’s a festive food for family gatherings, sold by the box, but you can also get a bento with a stewed chicken leg and a braised egg. Get there when they open to avoid the line; they usually sell out by noon. Oh, and definitely try the taro kuih, a traditional snack made of taro and rice.”
“It’s not hard to find a great bowl of beef noodle soup in Taipei, but this is my personal favorite. The broth is soothing and herbal, the noodles are perfectly Q (Taiwanese for al dente), and the beef shank is sliced crosswise, holding its shape but fall-apart tender. Definitely order a few of the small side dishes on offer. I’d recommend green veggies dressed in sesame oil, marinated wheat gluten, or braised tofu. And please don’t skip the beef fat chili paste condiment placed on every table.”
“In Taipei, you can find a wide array of authentic Chinese foods, evidence of a long history of cross-strait migration. Qin Wei Guan is a Shaanxi-style restaurant, serving cuisine from northern China that reflects the regional Muslim population. The menu features lots of lamb, beef, wheat, and broad-cut noodles. Definitely get the shredded-potato stir fry, cumin lamb skewers, egg rice, and the crispy cheese rangoon dessert. Make a reservation, and PS: They have an English menu.”
“This is a household name in Taipei, a go-to for Taiwanese specialties in a sit-down setting. I love enjoying Taiwanese food on the street, but it’s a nice experience to have it all on one menu, especially if you are new to the cuisine. I favor the dried-radish egg omelette, wok-seared crab, fried oysters, and clam soup, but the shining star for me is the almond bean curd dessert, made with fresh almond milk and tapioca starch instead of gelatin or agar-agar. Don’t forget to make a reservation.”
“A cozy, impeccably furnished cafe with great coffee, an exhibition space, a recording studio, and a basement shop featuring a collection of vintage Mandopop cassettes. Come here to relax and plan your next move in a wood-paneled space with a vintage feel. Sidoli offers all the typical espresso preparations, plus Taiwan-inspired specials like black sugar and Osmanthus lattes. Snack on a selection of Taiwanese-style toasts, like classic red bean with butter, or grab a pastry from the bar.”
“This neighborhood bakery makes beautiful milk bread, pork floss buns, pineapple bolo bao, and a pretty good baguette too. Taipei is full of great bakeries, but the small storefront, French and Japanese leanings, and large window into the kitchen (where the bakers can be seen shaping loaves) set this one apart for me. It’s nestled deep in the Datong neighborhood; enjoy the quiet squares, street-side container gardens, and multitude of banyan trees on your way there.”